If you’re around south-west shore of Lake Garda and feel like escaping the summer crowds for a day, you don’t need to go far. Just a 20-minute drive west of Desenzano takes you into a different kind of landscape, soft hills, olive groves, vineyards and stories that stretch back centuries. This is Calvagese della Riviera, a small village with a noble soul, surrounded by history, nature and some unexpected treasures. Here, you’ll find castles, Romanesque churches, quiet walking trails, biking routes.

Here is a slow itinerary between the hills and the River Chiese, where the rhythm of life follows the land and not the other way around.

Calvagese: History Beneath the Surface

Calvagese della Riviera is a small town made up of three main villages — Calvagese, Carzago Riviera and Mocasina — each with its own identity and charm. Its position on a glacial moraine ridge overlooking the River Chiese made it strategically important throughout the Middle Ages. Though little remains of its original fortifications, the historical layers are still visible if you know where to look.

Start in the historic center of Calvagese, where the Parish Church of the Chair of Saint Peter in Antioch holds some remarkable artistic gems. This 14th-century church was remodeled in the Baroque period and houses frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries, including a Madonna and Child by Romanino and a Deposition attributed to Zenone Veronese. The atmosphere is quiet and contemplative, offering a true encounter with the religious and cultural roots of the area.

MarteS – a museum in a Palazzo

A short walk from the village leads you to Palazzo Sorlini, a noble villa in Carzago Riviera that now houses the MarteS – Museo d’Arte Sorlini. At the heart of the MarteS collection are over 180 works of sacred art, spanning from the 15th to the 18th century. Among them, you’ll find masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Palma il Giovane, Giambattista Pittoni, Sebastiano Ricci, Romanino and Moretto. It’s a refined collection, focused on the spiritual and aesthetic traditions of the Venetian and Lombard schools, something rarely found elsewhere in the Brescia area.

Luciano Sorlini, entrepreneur and patron of the arts, bought many of these paintings with the intention of bringing them back to their native lands. Today, the museum continues that vision with exhibitions, concerts and cultural programs that explore the ties between art, faith, and the land.

But even beyond the artworks, the MarteS is an experience in itself. Walking through its rooms lined with frescoes, feels like stepping inside a Baroque private residence.

The MuSaRT opens a dialogue with its landscape. Many of its events are shaped in collaboration with local organizations and often blends visual arts with music, architecture and nature. For anyone exploring Calvagese or looking for something truly unexpected just a few kilometres from Desenzano, the MarteS is an essential stop.

Villas, Castles and legends

Calvagese’s rural surroundings are dotted with fascinating sites, each with a story to tell.

In the countryside between Calvagese and Lonato, you’ll find the hamlet of Drugolo, home to one of the best-preserved medieval castles in the area. Castello di Drugolo dates back to at least the 10th century and is surrounded by crenellated walls, corner towers and a tiny Romanesque chapel dedicated to Saint Michael. Though privately owned and not open to the public, the castle can be admired from the surrounding paths, especially during walks or bike rides through the area.

According to local legend, a young noblewoman named Angelica tried to escape an arranged marriage through a secret passage under the castle. Her plan was discovered, and the passage was sealed. Trapped underground, she died and her spirit is said to still roam the castle grounds, especially at night. Whether you believe the tale or not, the story adds a touch of gothic drama to an otherwise peaceful place.

Further south lies Arzaga, once the heart of a Renaissance estate and now home to Palazzo Arzaga — a 16th-century villa reborn as a luxury resort and spa. This vast property features frescoed halls, vaulted ceilings and a private chapel, all set among cypress-lined paths and centuries-old olive trees. In recent years, part of the villa was transformed into QC Termegarda, a wellness retreat where guests can unwind in thermal pools surrounded by art and history. The estate also hosts one of the region’s most prestigious golf courses Arzaga Golf with 2 courses and 27 holes.

Following the River Chiese: Nature and Paths

The River Chiese, which marks part of Calvagese’s western boundary, plays a central role in shaping the area’s landscape and life. Historically, it provided water for crops, powered mills and defined feudal territories. Today, it offers a peaceful setting for outdoor activities.

A great starting point is the Ciclabile della Gavardina, a flat bike path that runs parallel to the river from Brescia toward Lake Garda. Near Bedizzole, you can join the path at Parco Airone, a nature reserve with hiking paths and many pic-nic areas. It’s perfect for a slow ride or a riverside walk, suitable for all ages and fitness levels.

For something more scenic, head into the Valtenesi hills, where trails wind through vineyards, olive groves, and old farmsteads. Some routes connect the castles of Padenghe, Drugolo, and Soiano, offering panoramic views of the lake and countryside. The Sentiero dei Castelli is a great option for walkers, with loops that link historic sites with quiet rural roads great by bike.

A Taste of the Land

No visit to Calvagese would be complete without experiencing its food and wine. This area is part of the Garda DOC wine region, and its hills are home to small-scale producers of Groppello, a native red varietal, as well as Riesling, Chiaretto rosé, and sparkling wines. If you would like some great wine tasting while in the area I recommend these family ran places: Azienda Agricola La Torre or Redaelli De Zinis.

Many local agriturismi welcome visitors for tastings and long, simple meals made with seasonal ingredients grown right on their land. Expect cured meats, handmade pasta, garden vegetables and generous pours of wine often served in shaded courtyards or rustic dining rooms. I love these places: they’re honest, unpretentious and remind you how good food can be when it’s about sharing.

Nearby Villages Worth a Stop

Thanks to its central location, Calvagese makes an excellent base for exploring the lesser-known gems of the western Garda region.

• Padenghe sul Garda offers a medieval castle with open access and stunning lake views, plus olive oil producers and pebble beaches.
• Lonato del Garda impresses with its hilltop Rocca, a massive fortress praised even by Napoleon. Don’t miss the charming Casa del Podestà and the Benedictine abbey of Maguzzano.
• Polpenazze del Garda is perched on a natural terrace with views over the lake. Known for its vineyards and spring wine fair, it’s also an archaeological site with traces of prehistoric stilt villages (UNESCO).
• Soiano del Lago, with its small castle and village charm, is perfect for a sunset stroll.
• Further north, Puegnago del Garda and the Laghetti di Sovenigo — three lotus-filled ponds surrounded by reeds — offer a hidden pocket of calm and biodiversity.

For Walkers and Cyclists

The area around Calvagese offers a mix of easy routes and more demanding circuits. From riverside paths along the Chiese to panoramic climbs into the Valtenesi, there’s something for every pace and season.

In summer, you’ll walk under buzzing cicadas and golden light. In autumn, the vineyards turn to rust and amber. And in every season, the views surprise a castle tower behind the trees, a flock of birds above the water, or the scent of rosemary by a dry stone wall.

If you’re up for a longer ride, there’s a scenic loop trail connecting Lonato, Salò, and back via Calvagese and Bedizzole — about 60 km of gravel roads, paved climbs, and rolling hills.