Explore Lake Garda’s Most Local and Laid-Back Region

Between Desenzano del Garda, Salò, and the first hills rising from the southwestern shore of Lake Garda lies Valtenesi — an area in the province of Brescia, Lombardy. It’s not an official district on most maps, but a group of villages united by landscape, traditions, and a quieter rhythm of life. It’s a place locals know well, and visitors often discover only after exploring beyond the obvious. The area is also popular among cyclists: a network of scenic cycling routes and trails winds through vineyards, olive groves, and hilltop villages, making it a rewarding choice for slow travel on two wheels. For more details, check out the Ciclabile della Valtenesi route.

Valtenesi isn’t a village, but a region. A cluster of seven small towns with old stone walls, winding roads, and more vineyards than shops. These destinations are lived-in, a little uneven, and full of details that feel true.

The Seven Villages of Valtenesi

Each of the seven towns offers something quietly different and you can find more details in the posts for every town 

Padenghe sul Garda 🏰has  a medieval castle with a panoramic view. But more than the view, it’s the silence at the top of the hill that stays with you. Walk up early and you might be alone — watching the sunrise as it hits the lake and the peninsula of Sirmione in the distance. 

Moniga 🍷 is about wine. Not the kind on display in airport shops, but Chiaretto rosé served in small family-run cantinas. Harvest typically happens in early September, but by spring, the new vintages are being bottled and tasted — a perfect time to catch the process in action.

Manerba 🌄 stretches wide. From the Rocca di Manerba, a natural reserve and archaeological site perched on a cliff, the view over Lake Garda opens suddenly and dramatically. On clear days, you can see as far as Sirmione and the northern mountains including Monte Baldo on the other shore of the lake.

San Felice ⛵ is a place of little harbours, quiet courtyards, and lemon trees growing between walls. From the port, boats leave regularly to reach Isola del Garda — a private island with a neo-Gothic villa and lush gardens that can be visited with a guided tour.

Puegnago and Polpenazze 🌳 are hilltop towns where time still passes slowly. Wineries with handwritten signs, olive groves that belong to families, and small piazzas where things actually happen.

Soiano del Lago ⛳ sits on one of the highest hills in Valtenesi and is best known for its historic golf course — one of the oldest on Lake Garda. From up here, you get sweeping views of vineyards, terracotta roofs, and cypress trees.

A Glimpse into Prehistoric Life: The Lucone Pile-Dwellings 🏛️

Near Polpenazze, an archaeological site offers one of the most surprising pieces of history in Valtenesi. The Lucone pile-dwellings, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are the remains of a Bronze Age settlement where homes were built on stilts over water.

The site dates back to 2100–1400 BC. It’s a window into a time when people lived close to nature, using what the land gave them. The abundance and quality of archaeological findings made Lucone a site of fundamental importance for the study of Prehistory in northern Italy. To preserve this heritage for future generations, the site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in June 2011, as part of the transnational serial site “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps.”

You can visit the area with a guide (the site is usually open in summer) and see some of the artefacts at the Archaeological Museum in Gavardo. If you’re someone who likes to see more than just pretty views, it’s worth your time. The area is fascinating and it’s a meaningful stop if you’re passing through. You can reach it on foot if you’re already in the area, or cycle the area.  To better understand its significance, visit the Archaeological Museum in Gavardo, where many of the original finds are displayed.

Truffles, Saffron, and the Unexpected Side of Garda Cuisine 🌿

Yes, Valtenesi is known for wine and olive oil. But did you know this region also produces black truffles and saffron?

Truffle cultivation began here in the 1980s and has become part of the local food culture. In fact, white truffles from the area were already praised in documents from the 1800s. Today, the culture is thriving again thanks to a new generation of foragers and small producers — supported by the Associazione Tartufai della Valtenesi, founded in 2023. Events like Tartufi sotto le stelle in Moniga bring together truffle lovers, wine producers, and curious visitors usually happens end of August.

Saffron, on the other hand, is still a quiet tradition — grown in small plots, harvested by hand, and shared in short supply. Some local producers have even started creating small batches of saffron-infused honey, liquors, and sweets — like handmade biscotti, savory schiacciatine, and the crumbly local cake known as sbrisolona. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot one of these at a market table or on the menu of a family-run trattoria.

🍽️ Good to Know

Even in the quietest corners of the Valtenesi, there are a few places I always go back to — here are my favourites:

🥂 Podere dei Folli
A family-run winery with four generations of winemaking behind it. Their mission is simple: to express the essence of Valtenesi in a glass of rosé. Authentic, sustainable, and ideal for a relaxed tasting with a view of the hills.

🍕 Giuma
Gourmet pizza with a view. They serve other dishes too, but the pizza in my opinion is the best and the reason I go back. The terrace overlooks the Valtenesi hills and the lake. Absolutely stunning.
→ Book ahead, it fills up quickly.