Big bench, big views, small village. Welcome to San Felice.

San Felice del Benaco sits on the western shore of Lake Garda in the Valtenesi area, between olive groves and soft hills. Its name comes from the Latin *Sinus Felix* — meaning “happy bay” — a reflection of its peaceful location and mild climate.

This is not a place for fast checklists. It’s where lake views, old stones, and the scent of lemon trees do the talking.

A Walk Through the Village

The centre of San Felice is small, with cobbled lanes and houses in warm stone. At the heart is Palazzo Rotingo — once a noble home, now the town hall. The square nearby wakes up for the weekly market on Saturdays.

For art lovers, the parish church — built in the 18th century — stands above the square in a simple, elegant way. Inside, you’ll find something unexpected: a 16th-century altarpiece by Girolamo Romanino — one of the key painters of the Italian Renaissance in Lombardy. The ceiling is decorated with soft baroque frescoes, and the bell tower behind the church was once part of a medieval castle.

From Portese to Cisano

San Felice is made of three parts: the main village of San Felice itself, Portese by the water, and Cisano up in the hills. Each has its own rhythm and atmosphere.

In Portese, you’ll find a small harbour, cafés with lake views, and fishing boats moored along the dock. Ferries stop here in summer, making it a good place to start a boat trip. Up the hill, the church of San Giovanni features Renaissance and Baroque details — including a 16th-century painting by Grazio Cossali — and offers a wide view over the Gulf of Salò.

Cisano is a small village made of narrow lanes. Here, you’ll find Palazzo Cominelli, a 17th-century building that now hosts exhibitions and cultural events. In its garden sits something unexpected: a giant yellow bench. It’s part of the Big Bench project, and from up there, you get a spectacular view over the Gulf of Salò.

Spiritual Places and Lake Views

Just a short walk from Cisano stands the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Carmine. Built in the 15th century, this stone church has long been a place of devotion. According to tradition, it was built as a gesture of gratitude to the Virgin Mary for protecting sailors during storms.

The building is simple — one main hall, wooden beams, and faded frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries. Every year in late July, locals carry the statue of the Madonna through decorated streets, in a moving procession that ends at the sanctuary.

Another peaceful walk leads to the small Church of San Fermo, set at the end of a trail overlooking the lake. Technically, the church and the viewpoint belong to San Felice del Benaco — though the views stretch toward Manerba. The easiest way to reach it is by parking along Via Benaco (around number 15) and following the trail through olive groves.

Food Worth the Trip

For a relaxed and well-curated experience, La Dipensa is a good choice. The restaurant is in the village centre, known for its creative approach to local ingredients. If you prefer something by the lake, Osteria da Mari in Porto Dusano offers a scenic location right by the water.

Wherever you eat, ask for Chiaretto — the local rosé — or Groppello, a red wine typical of the Valtenesi hills..

Isola del Garda – A Private Island with a Grand History

Isola del Garda is the largest island on Lake Garda. It belongs to the Cavazza family, who still live there today, and is open to visitors only through guided tours. The island lies near the western shore of the lake, just off San Felice del Benaco. It’s known for its Venetian-style villa, terraced gardens, and historical background as a monastic site in the Middle Ages.

To visit, you need to book a boat tour in advance. Most tours include the boat ride, a guided walk through the gardens, and access to part of the villa. Tours are available from April to October and usually last around 2 hours. More information and booking options are available on the official website: 👉 www.isoladelgarda.com

Bonus Tip: Where to Stay

Villa Luisa Resort & Spa set on the hillside with a wide garden and pool, it’s close to the village and yet peacefully detached. The rooms are spacious, the spa is a plus, and it’s a good option if you’re planning to explore more of the Valtenesi by car or bike.

For something more intimate, Il Piccolo Paradiso in Cisano is a peaceful B&B surrounded by greenery. It offers a warm welcome and a relaxed atmosphere, not far from the Carmine Sanctuary.