Just a short drive from the southern shores of Lake Garda, the villages of Solferino and San Martino della Battagliamay seem peaceful today. But in 1859, they were at the centre of a battle that shaped the path to Italian unification — and also gave rise to a humanitarian idea that would reach far beyond these hills: the creation of the Red Cross.

Where It Happened

San Martino della Battaglia is a small locality within the municipality of Desenzano, not far from the A4 motorway exit. A tall stone tower stands at its highest point, overlooking the plain between Lake Garda and the Po Valley. From here, you can reach Solferino in about 15 minutes by car. It’s a slightly higher hill, part of the Colline Moreniche, a chain of rolling hills formed by ancient glaciers.

In 1859, these locations were not part of a tourist itinerary. They became the centre of a major conflict during the Second Italian War of Independence, as the Kingdom of Sardinia and France joined forces to push back the Austrian Empire and reclaim northern Italian territories.

The Battle of 24 June 1859

On that summer day, more than 300,000 soldiers fought across this region. The French army, led by Napoleon III, joined the forces of the Kingdom of Sardinia, ruled by Victor Emmanuel II. Their enemy: the Austrians, who controlled much of northern Italy at the time.

There was no clear front line. The fighting spread across a wide area — from Medole to San Martino, and from Castiglione to Solferino. The battle dragged on for over 15 hours, with brutal hand-to-hand combat, chaos and smoke. Soldiers charged with bayonets. Villages burned. Water ran red. It was one of the deadliest days in 19th-century European warfare.

Many did not die from their wounds directly, but from the lack of care that followed. And yet, it was this day — through fire, blood and thousands of losses — that marked a turning point in Italy’s struggle for unification.

The Austrian forces were pushed back. The Franco-Sardinian victory at Solferino and San Martino led to the eventual retreat of the Austrians from Lombardy, and paved the way for the creation of a united Kingdom of Italy just two years later, in 1861.

San Martino saw some of the most intense fighting between the Austrians and the Italians. Solferino was the heart of the French assault. In both places, the impact was immense: over 40,000 men were killed, wounded or went missing in just one day.

After the armies moved on, the local population was left to care for thousands of injured men — often without medical knowledge, equipment or supplies. Churches were turned into field hospitals. Beds were made of straw. Clean water and bandages were scarce.

The Man Who Saw It All

Jean-Henri Dunant, a Swiss businessman from Geneva, was travelling through northern Italy. He hoped to meet Napoleon III to resolve a bureaucratic issue connected to a business project in French-ruled Algeria.

Instead, he arrived in Castiglione delle Stiviere on the evening of the battle and was confronted with a scene of horror: the wounded lying in streets, churches, and fields, calling for help. Many had not yet been treated. There was chaos, pain, and no organised relief effort.

Dunant didn’t leave. He stayed for several days, helping to coordinate volunteers — many of them local women — to provide water, food and basic medical care. He urged people to assist all soldiers, regardless of uniform, with the words “Tutti fratelli” — “We are all brothers.”

This experience marked him deeply. When he returned home, he wrote a small book called A Memory of Solferino. In it, he not only described the events he witnessed, but called for the creation of an international organisation to care for the wounded during wartime — neutral, voluntary and permanent.

His words found listeners. The book sparked discussions across Europe, among diplomats, doctors and military leaders. On 17 February 1863, a group of citizens in Geneva met for the first time to explore how Dunant’s vision could become reality. That meeting marked the birth of what would soon be called the International Committee of the Red Cross. The following year, in August 1864, their work led to the signing of the first Geneva Convention — the document that established the basic principles for humanitarian treatment during war.

What You Can See Today

If you visit Solferino and San Martino today, you’ll find monuments that honour both the battle and the idea it inspired.

San Martino della Battaglia

At San Martino, a large tower was built in 1893 to commemorate the Italian soldiers who fought in the battle. Today, you can climb to the top for wide, open views of the surrounding vineyards and the Lugana region. Before heading up, it’s worth visiting the nearby museum first: it’s compact but slightly interactive, with thoughtful displays of weapons, uniforms, and everyday objects from the time. The small ossuary nearby holds the remains of over 2,600 soldiers — with bones and skulls visibly arranged behind glass. It may not be suitable for everyone, but it leaves a lasting impression.

Solferino

Solferino also has a museum and an ossuary. But what stands out most is the Red Cross Memorial, located just outside the village. Here you’ll find the International Red Cross Memorial Park, a peaceful space with flags from around the world and a sculpture honouring Dunant’s legacy.

Every year in late June, volunteers and visitors from many countries gather in Solferino for the Fiaccolata, a torchlight march that retraces the path taken by those who helped the wounded after the battle. It’s not a political event. It’s a moment of shared memory — and a reminder of how much compassion can grow from tragedy.

Why It Matters

Solferino and San Martino are not just names in a history book. They are places where something broke — and something opened. A day of blood, noise and desperation, but also a key moment in Italy’s fight for independence — and the moment when one person looked around and chose to care.

That choice didn’t end the war. But it changed what we believe is possible, even in the darkest moments.

If you come here, you might not feel the weight of history all at once. But you will sense it — in a quiet tower, in a name on a wall, in the echo of an idea that still saves lives today.

How to Get There

Both San Martino della Battaglia and Solferino are reachable by car from Desenzano del Garda (15–20 minutes). San Martino can also be reached by bike from the town centre, following country roads through vineyards – tips how to get around here.

Opening Hours

Check local tourism sites or the Red Cross museum pages — opening times vary by season, especially for tower access or guided visits.

A quick “out of chaos” day trip: San Martino, Solferino and a lakeside finale

If you only have a few hours and want to escape the crowds without missing the highlights, here’s a little route to consider.

Start your morning in San Martino della Battaglia, just about 10 minutes from Desenzano by car. The towering monument and peaceful park set the tone, helping you imagine the dramatic battle that changed Italian history in 1859. Climb to the top if you can — the view stretches all the way to the lake.

From here, drive on to Solferino, around 15 minutes away through quiet countryside roads. Explore the historic fortress (Rocca), visit the small Risorgimento museum and take a moment in the tranquil Memorial Ossuary. By lunchtime, choose a local trattoria for a simple meal — nothing fancy, just honest flavors and a glass of local wine.

On the way back, you have two options. If you feel like diving into the lake vibe, head to Peschiera del Garda (about 20 minutes away) for a quick stroll along the canals and maybe a gelato before returning to Desenzano.

If you’d rather keep it slow and scenic, stop at Sirmione instead. Wander through narrow alleys, look out at the castle and catch that fresh breeze from the tip of the peninsula — the perfect soft landing before ending your day back in Desenzano.